I'm addicted to these small designers
The craftsmanship, the creativity, the rush of finding someone before the world does
When I studied abroad in Prague, I lived a few blocks away from two independent designers’ studios. They were tiny storefronts, each only holding around 20 one-of-a-kind pieces produced in their respective back rooms.
This was the first time I had gone into a store and spoken to the person who made the clothes. As I tried on their pieces, I could feel their eyes on me through the fitting room curtain. I was putting something on my body that existed nowhere else; that was sewn by the hands of a young girl, who couldn’t have been a few years older than me, who stood on the other side of the makeshift dressing room. The knowledge that, if I bought something, I would be the only one in the world to have it was too enticing to pass up.
I bought a bubble-gum pink babydoll dress from a designer named Anna Tran. It was so unlike me; the color, the simple fact that it was a dress. But it felt good. It was mine and no-one else’s. And if anyone asked, I could say, ‘Oh sorry, this is from an independent boutique in Prague.’ Come on, that’s cool. Like, objectively.
I have since kept my eyes peeled for independent designers, both in person and on social media. In a world riddled with cheaply made, copy-and-paste fast fashion, I find that following up-and-coming designers is the most exciting way to discover new styles.
For a story I wrote a few months ago about personal style, I spoke to an independent stylist in Chicago named Jabari Sandifer. He noted that many independent designers are ripped off by bigger brands. Without the backing of a notable name, small designers are easy targets for brands like Shein and Zara to steal unique designs that they can create for a molecule of the cost.
Whether you are browsing or purchasing, independent designers deserve your attention. They are often producing sustainably, if not in terms of materials than regarding ethical production practices. And they have the freedom to create wherever they want, without stakeholders or opinions to sway their artistic decisions. Here are a few of my favorites.
Bye Frisbie | @byefrisbie
Frisbie (that’s probably not his actual name, but who knows!) is an LA-based designer who specializes in bags. He predominantly works with recycled denim to make his detailed creations, which often feature motifs of houses and landscapes.
His needlework is among the most intricate I’ve ever seen. One quick scroll through his Instagram Reels demonstrates why his prices range from $20 for a simple bucket hat to $7,500 for a backpack shaped like an apartment complex. He has worked with athletes to create custom designs and recently did a campaign for New Belgium: a Frisbie x Fat Tire 6-pack carrier.
Paula Votteler | @paulasprojects_
What if someone told you they found the perfect clutch for your wedding day — something white (obviously), unique, pearlescent and elegant. The catch? It’s made of entirely recycled yogurt cups. The other catch? You’d never be able to tell.
Paula Votteler is a designer based in Berlin who does everything from up-cycling vintage garments to creating handbags from scratch. What caught my attention though is her work with recycled plastic. Using water bottles, yogurt containers and other throw-away objects, she crafts beautiful handbags that seriously belong in a museum exhibit. She hand-cuts the recycled scraps into tiny shapes, often circles, molds them into 3-dimensional beads and threads them into a pattern that envelops the entire purse.
When she’s not creating eco-friendly handbags, she is a skilled thrift-flipper, taking frumpy second-hand pieces and transforming them into unrecognizable, chic pieces.
I wouldn’t be surprised to read about her in Vogue or WWD in a few years. And I hope I get the byline.
Maggs Rags | @maggs_rags
Enter the world of Magg’s Rags, where rats are prima ballerinas, lobsters sunbathe in itty-bitty bikinis and alligators wear sexy red cowgirl boots. Each of her one-of-a-kind patchwork designs are a character in her storybook collection of recycled crewnecks, camisoles and T-shirts, straight from your Pinterest board. My personal favorite designs include: mice playing pool, lobsters drinking martinis, and the New York City pizza rat with sneakers that actually lace up.
Common themes in her work include animals (though not your cute furry friends, she favors the underdog rodents and roaches), martinis and martini ingredients, vintage cars and funky furniture. It is impossible not to smile at her designs, and if you are lucky enough to make it to one of her clothing drops, it is impossible to choose what to purchase.
She has been transparent on her social media about her designs being stolen by conglomerates like Shein (EW!) so I beg you, support our girl directly — she releases a small collection of new pieces every two weeks on her website.
Antoine Guerin | @antoine.guerin_
I’ve never been one of those girls who thinks about my wedding. I’ve never fantasized about walking down the aisle and I don’t have a dream first-dance song. But if I do get married, I want Antoine Guerin to design my wedding gown.
His dark and romantic oeuvre features dainty corsets and dresses, whose creation he documents through mesmerizing Instagram videos set to classical melodies. He takes intricacy to another level, creating pleated fabrics with a beautiful quality of movement that balances the geometric structure of the corsets.
Guerin has mastered the dichotomy of simplicity and singularity. From a distance, his designs aren’t over the top, but upon a closer look, there is so much detail that is consistent over his body of work.
Guerin is one to watch. He has his eyes on major fashion houses and has already worked with Mugler and Schiaparelli.
Sunworn Vintage | @sunwornvintage
Dana Andrews, creator of Sunworn Vintage, couldn’t have come up with a better name for her design business if she tried. Her creations are literally sun-worn, predominantly crafted from used towels that are transformed into everything from water bottle carriers to tote bags to flappy winter hats. Her colorful creations conjure a place where beach-meets-mountains, reflecting both the sunny and outdoorsy spirit of her hometown, Salt Lake City, Utah.
She has expanded her unisex designs into different materials and styles since I first started following her, but she continues to meld functionality and funky. Andrews releases her clothing in small batches and is occasionally open for custom orders where you can mail her a fabric and a design request.
Special shout out to Nicole McLaughlin
I didn’t include her in this list because she’s not really a small designer anymore. She’s partnered with Fila, Calvin Klein, Puma, Prada, and Reebok, and her unconventionally functional designs have attracted over 800k followers on Instagram.
I’ve been following her for years, gawking at her creativity and asking myself how did she think of that?!!! We know her, we love her, and if there’s one to watch, it’s her.
Cool people shop small businesses. And remember, whatever you buy, wear it well :)